Pastry chef Adrian Mendoza (Courtesy photo)
Bakery, East Village

Adrian Mendoza on the Rise: The Pastry Wizard is Leading the Opening of ‘Knead’ at Symphony Towers

By Frank Sabatini Jr.

What does the San Diego Symphony, the University Club and Symphony Towers have in common?

Aside from sharing a downtown address at 750 B St.,the three entities are fortunate to have in their courts pastry chef Adrian Mendoza.

Mendoza is no stranger to the power of flour. With two degrees under his belt—in pastry and culinary arts—he will oversee the late-summer launch of Knead, a much-anticipated bakery now under construction within Symphony Towers. He currently works 34 floors above the upcoming venture at the posh University Club, and often provides concessions for symphony events.

The bakery will mark a career peak for Mendoza, who has worked in the local restaurant business for 20 years. He brings to the table perfected recipes for cookies, bagels, croissants and breads, as well as a savory menu that will complement the bakery’s cafe component.

Downtown Condo Guys: Where in Symphony Towers will Knead be located?

Mendoza: It will uniquely have two floors—on the first floor of the building, which will be for customers, and in the basement, where all of Knead’s production will take place such as the mixing, the dough shaping and other prep work.

Downtown Condo Guys: Do you have a stake in the business?

Mendoza: I have no investment in it. I’m just running the show—the orchestrator. I have people who believe in me and who are letting me take the reins. Knead is a department of the University Club, and we have to abide by the building standards of our landlord, the Irvine Company. 

Downtown Condo Guys: How long have you been the pastry chef for the University Club?

Mendoza: Just a year. I had been working for the Urban Kitchen Group catering division and for the group’s Cucina Urbana restaurant in Bankers Hill. (Note: Mendoza also held culinary positions at Herb & Wood in Little Italy, Wayfarer Bread & Pastry in La Jolla, and a few other local spots.)

Downtown Condo Guys: What type of baked goods and savory foods will Knead offer on a daily basis? And what hours of operation are planned?

Mendoza: We’ll have assorted croissants, muffins, scones, cookies and a couple of different layer cakes. We’ll also have coffee cakes and breads, and we will feature some vegan and gluten-free things too. Our savory dishes will be bistro-style sandwiches such as ham and cheese with herb butter, as well as a soup of the day and a few different salads.

We’ll be open from 7:00a to 3:00p Monday through Friday. The first hour will just be coffee and pastries and then we will open it up for breakfast items, such as breakfast sandwiches, burritos, yogurt parfaits, and acai bowls.

There will be 20 to 25 seats inside. Also, the symphony has a lobby area that the public can use to enjoy their goodies.

Downtown Condo Guys: What are some of the biggest challenges of being a pastry chef?

Mendoza: I’d say managing the controlled chaos. You have employees to look after and you have to make sure they’re happy. It’s a lot of work, but I try to make it as easy as possible for everyone, such as allowing music to be played in the kitchen, which also helps people become more productive.

Downtown Condo Guys: What was the first item you learned to bake from scratch?

Mendoza: It was ginger-molasses cookies when I was in 10th grade. It was a recipe I found in a magazine. We had a KitchenAid mixer at home that I used for mixing the dough. I enjoyed it and I started making the cookies over and over again for my family and bringing the cookies to school. The recipe has evolved over time. The ones I make today are really spicy with a lot of ginger in them and a little bit of cayenne and black pepper. It’s the adult version.

Downtown Condo Guys: From where did you receive your formal training?

Mendoza: I did professional training at the [former] Art Institute of San Diego in Mission Valley. I first earned an associates science degree in culinary arts from there. Then three or four years later I went back and completed the baking and pastry program for a second associate’s degree.

Downtown Condo Guys: What baked goods do you still find the most difficult to make?

Mendoza: Oh my gosh, it’s definitely croissants. They are very challenging in making them consistent throughout the seasons because of different temperatures and humidity levels. And then there is the shaping of them, which is very tedious. If you go lopsided just a little bit, they don’t even themselves out while baking. They require a lot of good eye judgment, feel, and intuition.

Downtown Condo Guys: Any favorite bakery out there, whether it be local, national or international?

Mendoza: I was in New York City in March taking a master croissant class and the instructor has a bakery called Breads Bakery in Union Square in Manhattan. I would say that was one of the most unique operations I’ve checked out. The bakers are there 24/7 and they have the best rugelach I’ve ever had in my life. A lot of celebrities like Martha Stewart love the place because the pastries are very unique.

Downtown Condo Guys: What non-baking pleasures do you enjoy?

Mendoza: I enjoy hiking and being at Balboa Park or Kate Sessions Park. I also like to go to Tijuana every now and then. The food is amazing down there. It’s become very progressive since the pandemic.

Downtown Condo Guys: What has been your greatest career achievement so far?

Mendoza: It’s not quitting the industry. Some people have been doing it for so long and then they give up. So far, I’ve been hanging on. Food is a necessity and nourishes the body, and it’s fun to be around.