
Spiny lobster at Ortega’s Mexican Bistro (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)
Foods in the News
By Frank Sabatini Jr.
Spiny lobster season is officially upon us. The sweet claw-less crustaceans, trawled from California and Baja waters, come into abundance each year between early October and mid-March. We found a trifecta of restaurants that do wonders with the shellfish, with each specimen weighing on average between 1.5 and 2 pounds.
Water Grill in the East Village takes a simple approach by grilling the lobsters over charcoal, which brings out the natural sweetness of their prized tail meat. They’re served with fresh coleslaw. Look no further than Ortega’s Mexican Bistro in Hillcrest for spiny lobster prepared in classic Puerto Nuevo style, meaning that the lobsters are steamed and then flash-grilled in butter, lemon and subtle seasonings. Also, at the popular bayside Fish Market downtown, the lobsters are either slapped onto a mesquite grill and served without fuss, or you might find them paired with gourmet sauces and reductions.
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Expect elaborate clambakes, classic fish and chips, and linguini loaded with shellfish when Gladstone’s San Diego opens in Seaport Village. The spot was last occupied by Edgewater Bar & Grill. The Los Angeles-based Gladstone’s, known for “coastal comfort” cuisine, was supposed to open last year. But permit delays and design issues have continued stalling it. We were recently told by a restaurant rep that Gladstone’s will finally make landing in San Diego by early 2027, if not earlier.
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For what it’s worth, November is the month when foodies across the nation celebrate peanut butter, vegan cuisine, pomegranates, banana pudding, raisin bread, and of course, all forms of stuffing. But do we really need a designated time of year to lawlessly indulge in these delights? Not us.