These grab-and-go sandies at Mona Lisa sell fast every day. (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)
Spotlight On Some Really Good Sandwiches in Metro San Diego
By Frank Sabatini Jr.
August is National Sandwich Month. It’s a culinary designation that began in the 1950s, when the Wheat Flour Institute joined forces with the American Bakers Association to launch a national sandwich-recipe contest. The annual contest ran with great popularity for 25 years.
The last winning entry (in 1980) was a doozy created by a woman from Washington State. It was called the St. Helen’s Sunnyside Special, which involved an English muffin topped with Canadian bacon, a slice of pineapple, berry marmalade, and baked meringue.
To no great disappointment, we can’t find that sandwich anywhere in San Diego. Although our trusty palates have zeroed in on several others ranging from creative to traditional that we consider winners.
- Our list starts with one of the simplest, and most deliciously affordable Italian sandwiches found at Mona Lisa Italian Foods in Little Italy. These smallish torpedo-shaped beauties are premade and sealed in plastic wrap in the morning. They sell out by noon at the latest. For only $1.99 you get a thin layering of ham, mortadella and Provolone cheese on a bakery-fresh roll. The sandwiches are free of condiments, which means you can chomp into them while walking or driving without fuss or mess.
- We’re torn between two outstanding sandwiches at the Big Front Door, located on the ground level of The Park apartment building in University Heights. If spicy is your thing, look no further than the “Loins on Fire” torpedo sandwich, which uses roasted poblano chilies and Fresno chili hot sauce to jazz up a generous stacking of roasted pork. Our other favorite is the “Ham & Poppy” involving Black Forest ham, whipped avocado and poppy-seed vinaigrette–all served between whole grain bread.
- Pulled pork sandwiches are hardly in short supply on the culinary scene. But the ones slung at the historic NuNu’s Tavern in Hillcrest are just as good, if not better, than any you’ll find in a reputable barbecue joint. Better yet, they pair swimmingly with a vodka tonic or a tall glass of house sangria spiked with brandy. Expect a high piling of the juicy, mildly smoked meat along with a generous crown of crispy coleslaw—all tucked into a fluffy brioche bun.
- Jo’s Mission Hills Diner has one of the best chicken-pesto sandwiches in town. It’s made with a plump, juicy chicken breast, red onions, fresh basil pesto and melted nutty-tasting Gruyere cheese. The ingredients are served between two slices of buttery, grilled sourdough bread sourced from Bread & Cie in Hillcrest. We also extend an honorable mention to Jo’s French dip, which uses wine-braised short rib, caramelized onions, and yes, more of that dreamy Gruyere.
- The chicken Parmesan sandwiches at Pete’s Seafood and Sandwich in North Park are loaded with fresh chicken cutlets coated in Italian breadcrumbs and fried to a perfect crisp. They go into 10-inch sub rolls along with house-made marinara sauce and mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. If you’re from the Northeast, the sandwich will likely beckon to your favorite Italian restaurant back home. And if you opt for the double chicken Parm, you’ll end up with a mountain of the cutlets that are deserving of an Instagram post.
- Appealing to both vegans and non-vegans is the decadent plant-based “sloppy Joe” grilled cheese at Val’s Vegan Kitchen in North Park. It’s a wondrous construct that goes down with big, bold flavors. The sandwich starts with hefty Texas toast, which captures convincing faux-mozzarella, as well as cashew cheese, crumbled Impossible-brand “beef,” onions, aioli and a hint of Sriracha sauce.
- Look no further than Giorgino’s in Golden Hill to score a grilled pork sandwich using cured “pork roll” from the Taylor Provisions Company based in New Jersey. The meat is a rare find in San Diego. It offers a crispy texture and a vague flavor of smoky-tangy summer sausage. Here, it’s served on a toasted Kaiser roll with melted white American cheese. The sandwich is plain, simple and lip-smacking.
